Water waves, sound and light behave alike: when they meet, they don't bounce off each other like balls — they pass through each other and add up. Every pattern in this experiment comes from this one simple rule.
1. Waves add up
u = u1 + u2
At every point, the displacements of both waves add together (the superposition principle). Crest + crest gives a higher crest — that is constructive interference. Crest + trough gives calm water — that is destructive interference.
2. Path difference decides
Δs = m·λ reinforcement
Δs = (m + ½)·λ calm
Δs = |r₁ − r₂| is the difference in distance from the two sources, and m = 0, 1, 2, … Points with a constant path difference lie on hyperbolas — that is why the calm lines in the “Two sources” setup are hyperbolas. Shifting a source's phase by 180° swaps the calm and reinforcement lines.
3. Diffraction: a wave peeks around the corner
d·sin θ = m·λ
Every point of a slit becomes a new source of waves (Huygens' principle). When the slit is comparable to the wavelength, the wave spreads out behind it almost in a semicircle. A grating is many slits spaced d apart — the waves reinforce each other only in directions that satisfy the formula above.
4. Young's experiment
Δy = λ·Ld
In the early 19th century, Thomas Young showed that light from two slits forms bright and dark fringes on a screen — so light is a wave. For small angles, the fringe spacing grows with λ and L, and shrinks when the slits are farther apart.
5. The full picture: fringes inside an envelope
I(θ) = I₀ · cos²(πd sin θλ) · (sin ββ)²
β = πa sin θλ
The first factor is two-slit interference (closely spaced fringes), the second is diffraction at each slit of width a (a broad envelope). When d is a multiple of a, one of the bright fringes lands on a dark minimum of the envelope and disappears.
6. Waves slow down in shallow water
v = λ·f, v ≈ √g·h
sin α₁sin α₂ = v₁v₂
The wave's frequency does not change, but in shallow water (small h) the wave travels more slowly, so it is shorter. When it arrives at a slant, its front turns — this is refraction, exactly like light entering glass.
7. Photons: one particle, two paths
P(y) ∝ I(y)
Light comes in packets — photons. Each photon lands in one random spot, but the probability of landing is proportional to the intensity I(y). After hundreds of hits, fringes emerge. Cover one slit and they vanish: they need both paths at once.
8. How does the tank compute?
∂²u∂t² = v²·(∂²u∂x² + ∂²u∂y²)
The water is a grid of 300 × 200 points spaced 1 mm apart. In each step (about 2 ms), the displacement of a point changes depending on its neighbors. The calculation is stable when v·Δt/Δx ≤ 1/√2 (the CFL condition) — here it is 0.5.