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Kitchen chemistrycooking is an experiment

The golden crust of a breaded pork cutlet, a set egg white, fluffy yeast dough, sour pickles and smooth mayonnaise — behind each of them are specific chemical reactions and laws of physics. Fry a cutlet, boil an egg to the minute, ferment pickles, whisk up mayonnaise and boil water on Rysy, Poland's highest peak.

Temperature speeds up reactions, water holds the surface at 100 °C, acid protects against spoilage, and proteins change shape.

Frying pan

time runs 8× faster · Space fry · F flip
Bottom — in panraw0%
Topraw0%

What are we frying?

175 °C

Time
0:00
Bottom temp.
20 °C
Surface water
25%
Reaction rate
—

Simplified model: the browning rate rises with temperature according to the Arrhenius equation, and as long as the surface is wet, its temperature stays not much above 100 °C.

Maillard: sugar + amino acid

Reducing sugars (glucose, fructose, lactose) combine with the amino groups of amino acids and proteins. This sets off a chain of hundreds of reactions that produces brown melanoidins and aromas: pyrazines (nutty, roasted), furans, thiazoles (meaty) and Strecker aldehydes. It runs slowly even at lower temperatures, but speeds up markedly above about 140 °C.

reducing sugar + –NH₂ → Schiff base → Amadori product → aromas + melanoidins

Caramelization: sugar alone

Caramel needs no amino acids. Sucrose softens and breaks down from about 160 °C (fructose caramelizes earlier): first you get a pale, straw-colored syrup, then at about 170–180 °C an amber caramel with the aroma of maltol, furans and diacetyl (the smell of butter). Above about 190–200 °C the caramel quickly turns bitter and then chars — leaving mostly black carbon.

Why do we pat meat dry?

As long as there is water on the surface, the energy goes into evaporating it and the temperature stays close to 100 °C — the meat turns gray and “stews”. That's why meat boiled in water never browns. Dried and placed in a well-heated pan, it passes 140 °C sooner. Don't overcrowd the pan — the juices that run out will cool it down.

Acrylamide forms mainly in starchy foods (fries, chips, heavily toasted bread) — just fry and bake to “golden, not brown”.

How does it work?

Temperature speeds up reactions

The rate of almost every reaction in the kitchen rises exponentially with temperature. The Arrhenius equation describes this: the higher the activation energy Ea, the more sharply a reaction “switches on” above a certain temperature. That's why a few degrees decide whether the yolk is runny, and whether the cutlet is golden or burnt.

k = A · e−Ea/(R·T) T in kelvins, R = 8.314 J/(mol·K)

Proteins change shape

A protein is a long chain of amino acids folded into a precise shape. Heat, acid, salt or whipping break the weak bonds that hold this shape — this is denaturation. The unfolded chains link up into a network that traps water: that's how egg white sets.

Gases leaven dough

C₆H₁₂O₆ → 2 C₂H₅OH + 2 CO₂    NaHCO₃ + H⁺ → Na⁺ + H₂O + CO₂

180 g of glucose gives 92 g of ethanol and 88 g of CO₂, and 1 g of baking soda with acid gives about 0.29 liters of CO₂ (at 25 °C). In the oven the gas expands further, and water evaporates.

Pressure decides boiling

ln pp₀ = −LR·(1T − 1T₀) L = 40.7 kJ/mol

Water boils when its vapor pressure equals the surrounding pressure. On Rysy (2,499 m) the pressure is about 750 hPa and water boils at about 92 °C; on Mount Everest, at about 70 °C. In a pressure cooker at about 2 bar — at about 120 °C.

Simplifications: the models on this page capture the direction and order of magnitude of the effects, but they are not recipes. Real foods differ in composition, size and moisture.

Challenges

  1. Fry a cutlet golden without burning itPork cutlet in the pan: both sides golden, neither burnt — then “Remove from pan”.not completed
  2. Boil an egg with a runny yolk and a set whiteChoose the water temperature and time so that the white sets but the yolk stays runny.not completed
  3. Rise yeast dough in 1 hourThe dough must double in volume within 60 minutes without collapsing.not completed
  4. Ferment cucumbers to below pH 4Cucumbers in brine with at least 1.5% salt.not completed
  5. Make mayonnaise that doesn't splitBlend in at least 200 mL of oil without it separating.not completed
  6. Boil water on Rysy and in a pressure cookerBoil water at the altitude of Rysy (2,499 m) in an ordinary pot, and separately in a pressure cooker.not completed

Did you know…?

  • Onions “sting” your eyes because, once they're cut, enzymes turn their sulfur compounds into volatile thiopropanal S-oxide (syn-propanethial S-oxide). The gas irritates the eyes, which defend themselves with tears. A chilled onion and a sharp knife help.
  • A cut apple turns brown because the enzyme polyphenol oxidase oxidizes polyphenols with oxygen from the air. Lemon juice slows this down thanks to its ascorbic acid and low pH.
  • The umami taste was described in 1908 by the Japanese chemist Kikunae Ikeda while studying broth made from kombu seaweed. It comes from glutamate — found naturally in tomatoes, cheese and mushrooms, among other foods.

Kitchen safety

  • Never put out burning oil with water. Turn off the burner and cover the pan with a lid or a fire blanket.
  • Cook poultry and ground meat all the way through (about 75 °C at the thickest point).
  • Make raw-egg dishes (homemade mayonnaise, kogel-mogel — yolks whipped with sugar) from fresh eggs, keep them in the fridge and eat them soon. For small children, pregnant women and older people, pasteurized eggs are a better choice.
  • A ferment or jam with fluffy, colorful mold — throw the whole thing out.
  • Don't open a pressure cooker while it's still under pressure; keep the valve clean.

Keys

Q W E R T Y
switch modes
Space
start / pause: frying, boiling the egg, rising, fermenting, whisking mayonnaise, heating water
F
Maillard: flip the cutlet
K
yeast: knead the dough
O
mayonnaise: pour oil (on / off)
N
restart the current mode
Esc
stop everything